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Under floor heating is a minefield for variations and limitations. Architects are very cautious about depths and widths of wood. I have very successfully used 8" French Oak over under floor heating using a variety of methods.

Method 1

Proceed as per normal concrete floor. Seal concrete and then bond osb to same but leave an expansion joint between the sheets of at least 2-3mm.

Check moisture content of osb3 (6-8%)

Heating must be turned off for at least 24 hrs before hand. Allow glue to harden for at least 8 hrs before laying wooden floor.

This method will leave a wood sandwich on top of u.f.h of at least 36 mm. It will reduce the efficiency of the heating by some 4-6%.nobody would notice this and it just takes the room a little longer to warm up.


Method 2

Use 50*100mm kiln dried batons @ 400mm centres,glue 100mm face to sealed screed and ragbolt every 500mm. They must be laid true.between the battens lay the heating pipes and then pour kiln dried sand level to the tops of batons and cover with vasquez sheeting. Over the top of this lay 18mm osb3 sheeting and screw to battens. Then lay your wooden floor.

Method 3

Install 3 1/2 by 2 1/2 kiln dried tapered batons into the final screed at 12" centres. Great care must be taken to create a level floor. Switch on heating and run at 15-18 degrees for at least 1 1/2 months. The concrete should be sealed and you can then fix the floor to the battens.

Method 4

This is by far the best method over UFH (process is the same as in “Fitting service page”) as there are no air gaps between the screed and the timber floor and also you do not have another layer of plywood which reduces the efficiency slightly.